奥地利人承认K2登顶造假 2010乔戈里顶峰零纪录

榆关

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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt" align="center"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">来源</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&nbsp; <a href="http://www.planetmountain.com/"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; COLOR: windowtext; TEXT-DECORATION: none; text-underline: none">www.planetmountain.com</span></a> &nbsp;&nbsp;<a href="http://www.explorersweb.com/"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; COLOR: windowtext; TEXT-DECORATION: none; text-underline: none">www.explorersweb.com</span></a>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; </span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">绿野网</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">翻译整理</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">【译者的话】</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">就在韩国女登山家吴银善干城章嘉登顶遭疑事件闹得沸沸扬扬之际，登山界又突然曝出一个巨大的登顶造假丑闻。今年夏季唯一的</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">K2</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">登顶者承认造假。面对层出不穷的造假事件，登山界应当怎么办？你同意作者的观点吗，还可以采取什么措施？</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">奥地利登山家</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Christian Stangl 9</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">月</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">7</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">日在奥地利国家电视台</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">ORF</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">承认自己并未登顶</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">K2</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">。之前所说的登顶只是他在巨大的压力和对失败的恐惧下产生的幻觉。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">这位奥地利登山家和</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&ldquo;</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">空中跑步者</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&rdquo;</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">在</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">8</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">月</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">10</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">日声称自己已经登顶</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">K2</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">。这也是今年夏季</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">K2</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">唯一一次登顶。根据</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Christian Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">的攀登报告，他独自一人以无氧阿式快速奔跑，往返只用了</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">70</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">个小时。这次看似无比伟大的攀登，一时间成为了几乎所有专业类网站的头条。但是这条登顶的消息一经公布就遭到了登山界部分人士的质疑。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt" align="center">&nbsp;<a href="/uploads/fckeditor/Image/201009/12840243266728838.jpg"><img src="/uploads/fckeditor/Image/201009/12840243266728838.jpg.thumb.jpg" alt="奥地利人承认K2登顶造假  2010乔戈里顶峰零纪录" /></a></div>
<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt" align="center"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><font size="2">Christian Stangl提供的K2顶峰自拍照</font></span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">但</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Christian Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">一直拒绝承认造假。甚至就在几周前，他还表示，自己登顶的事实无可争议，不愿再忍受媒体和登山协会的质疑，也不会再回答更多的问题了。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">著名登山网站</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">explorersweb.com</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">在完整刊登了</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Christian Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">的登山报告后，收到了许多登山者发来的邮件，讨论报告中提供的登顶照，并把它和之前其它的</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">K2</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">登顶照放在一起进行了比较。发现</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">登顶照左下方的棱线位置，根本就和</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">3</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">号营地的照片完全一样，终于踢爆了这场骗局。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt" align="center">&nbsp;<a href="/uploads/fckeditor/Image/201009/12840253955221725.jpg"><img src="/uploads/fckeditor/Image/201009/12840253955221725.jpg.thumb.jpg" alt="奥地利人承认K2登顶造假  2010乔戈里顶峰零纪录" /></a></div>
<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt" align="center"><font size="2"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><font size="2">两张不同的照片中的3号营地对比图</font></span></font></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22.1pt"><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">低头认错，纸终究包不住火</span></strong></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">9</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">月</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">7</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">日，</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Christian Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">在奥地利国家电视台</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">ORF</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">公开道歉，承认登顶只是自己在失败的压力和恐惧下产生的幻觉。</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&ldquo;</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">在最后一次上攀时，我进入了一种恍惚的状态，并相信自己已经登上了最高处。</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&rdquo;</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">就像所有人都会撒谎一样，登山家撒谎是一个众所周知的事实。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">只有少数</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&ldquo;</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">单纯的灵魂</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&rdquo;</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">仍然相信在任何环境下勇敢的登山者们都能保持</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&ldquo;</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">纯粹</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&rdquo;&ldquo;</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">真诚</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&rdquo;</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">的品行。</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">与其他人的不同在于：正如我们经常提到的那样，还有很多光环闪耀但很可能是谎言的登顶，因此，这位奥地利登山家的坦诚更加难能可贵。我们至少应该承认这一点。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">如果</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Christian Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">也这么想，恐怕就庆幸得太早了。根据今年从第三营下撤的登山者描述，他们根本没有在第一营以上的地方，看见其他人的攀登痕迹；而前进营地之上的帐篷或装备也没被动过。</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Zsolt Torok</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">和一队夏尔巴人前进营地附近的一块大岩石后面，发现了一个帐篷，里面藏着</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">的睡袋、供给品和一本书。因此有人认为连他这张照片都可能不是今年所拍的，而是他之前</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">2008</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">、</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">2009</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">年攀登</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">K2</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">撤退时拍摄的。不知</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Christian Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">最终能否顺利度过这场危机。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt" align="center">&nbsp;<a href="/uploads/fckeditor/Image/201009/12840253501059852.jpg"><img src="/uploads/fckeditor/Image/201009/12840253501059852.jpg.thumb.jpg" alt="奥地利人承认K2登顶造假  2010乔戈里顶峰零纪录" /></a></div>
<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt" align="center"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt"><font size="2">K2大本营附近Stangl藏起来的装备和供给品</font></span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22.1pt"><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">登顶造假，解决之道在何方</span></strong></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">有人可能会相信</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">的辩解之词，认为是高山反应让他产生了登顶的美妙幻觉以至于他把这当成了事实。当然，我们并不想对此进一步分析。即使</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Reinhold Messner</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">在电视上表示他相信</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">的说法。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">如果是这样的话，那我们就可以肯定，登山，尤其（但不仅仅）是攀登喜马拉雅山，是一种极度疯狂的冒险。在那里攀登就好像登山者是在云中艰难前进，根本分不清真正的目标和虚幻的顶峰，就像</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">那样。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">或许，正如</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Manuel Lugli</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">说的那样，出口在别处。因为如果连</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Christian Stangl</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">那样严肃和强健的登山家都如此夸张，那攀登喜马拉雅山就比我们原以为的要难得多。那么，要怎样才能杜绝这种造假行为呢？我认为，不是召开签署更多的会议和协定，也不是让管理和协调机构更加谨慎地对待登山报告，唯一的办法是再次发挥自己的想象力和创造力，正如某些登山家们有幸仍在做的那样，不去争夺人们的目光，不去参加无意义的比赛，而是勇敢地寻找新的路线，攀登不为人知的高峰，试着在冬季去攀登，挑战真正的</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">solo</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">方式。除此之外，剩下的不过是废话和虚名而已。</span></div>
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