Sept 24th -26th , 2011 迷失在希夏邦马 (1)

王雷

Sept 24th-26th，2011

迷失在希夏邦马(1)

仿佛过去几天发生的事情还不够，最后的几天本来该是很轻松的，却变成了对生存能力的考验。

9月24日，中午12点早上照旧是等10:30左右，太阳把营帐晒热了，大家才起来。待慢慢地享用完了早餐，就是中午了。今天的天气不坏，微微地下着雪，没有风。我计划26日下山，这两天得去把留在ABC的装备取回来。谁也不能预计明天的天气，何不趁今天天气还凑合去跑一趟呢？于是，12点多，我就出发了。我没有走上次走的山脊路，而是从山谷里绕了个远道。我总是好奇每座山从另一个角度看是什么样子的。特别是自从上次在山脊上一路观望着山谷过来，我一直很好奇山谷下面的另一番天地。为了避免多余的上上下下，我一直保持在5400米的线上走，这样就可以正好把我带到上ABC所在的高地前的最后一个山谷的入口。

9月24日，下午5点从山谷里绕道增添了不少乐趣。我可以近距离地欣赏周围那些令人生畏的绝壁和山谷间凝固的冰川河。当然，也要多花不少时间。等我优哉游哉地溜达到ABC，已是下午4点了。高地上雪下得比下面大些，风也紧些，不得不穿上防风衣。是应该单独在ABC过夜呢，还是回大本营和大家一起享受晚餐？我既然已经搞清了山谷里的路，而且那条路比山脊的路更好走更快，我算计着三个小时应该能到，何况是一路下山。日落是8点，我觉得天黑前下山回大本营吃晚餐应该不成问题。休息了会儿吃午餐，整理好装备，5点开始下山了。
9月24日，下午7点我沿着比来时更低一些的线路走，因为山谷低处的路更平整更好走，我一路走得很顺利很快。路上有很多巨石，有的斜倚在山坡上，姿态挺吓人，让我不禁想起电影”127小时”，有时甚至自娱地琢磨“万一”时该怎么办。7点左右，
我知道太阳快要下山了，
我必须离开山谷里好走的路，回到山坡上的“正道”。这样万一天黑时我没到营地，沿着“正道”走也不必担心。虽然从山上看山谷觉得挺平的，实际上山谷里也有很多小山包，身在其中只能看到很小的世界。我翻过一座又一座小山包；穿过一条小河，像是到营地前的最后一条河；最后终于上了一座“大山”，看起来就是营地边上的那座山包。我甚至可以发现有人曾经走过的迹象。不过我还是隐隐有些担心，因为我一直没有看到一个玛尼堆。

Lost on
ShishaPangma
--
Part 1

As if the
drama
of the past few days was not enough,
the final days that were supposed to be relaxing turned into a survival game.

5pm, Sept 24th, 2011

The detour was interesting. I got a close look at those intimidating steep walls around the valley and the frozen glacier river separating the valleys. But it definitely cost me more time that I didn’t arrive at ABC
until about 4pm. It was snowing harder on the high plateau and the wind was slightly stronger. Windproof layer became necessary.

I debated about staying at ABC by myself or going down to enjoy the nice dinner with team
in base camp. Since I already figured out the valley way which was easier and faster than the ridge way, I calculated that I can make it in three hours. It’s downhill anyway. The sunset time is 8pm. I should have no problem getting down before dark and catch the dinner in base camp.

After a late lunch break and sorting out my pack, I started going down at 5pm.

12pm Noon, Sept 24th, 2011

As usual, we got up after sun heat up our tents around 10:30am and slowly enjoyed our breakfast until noon. The weather was decent, light snow and hardly any wind. I was planning to leave the mountain on 26th
and need to get my gear back from ABC within the
next
couple days.  Who knows what tomorrow would be like? I’d better go today when the weather was not too bad. Shortly after 12pm, I left base camp for ABC.

I took a
long and relaxed detour around
the valley instead of the ridge way we did before. I was always curious about what the mountain looks like from a different side and had been wondering what it would be like down low in the valley since
looking at it all the way from high up on the ridge
last time. To avoid unnecessary up and down, I kept walking along 5400m line so that it
would take me to the entry of the last valley before I need to go up the high plateau that ABC was on.

7pm, Sept 24th, 2011

I went a little lower in the valley
on the way back
for flatter trail. It was more relaxing and much faster to walk in the valley bed. There were a lot of huge boulders on the trail. Sometimes the movie “127 hours” came to my mind when I passed by some intimating-looked rocks perched on the hill. Hope they don’t roll down the hill in that split second when I walked by. I even entertained my imagination by thinking of my escape plans should the unexpected happen.

Around 7ish, knowing sunset is coming soon, I knew it’s important that I leave valley bed and get back on normal trail immediately so that I could still follow in dark in case I went slower than I planned. The valley bed looked flat from high up, but actually there were a lot of little hills inside it that it was hard to see your surroundings when you were in it. I climbed up one little hill after another, crossed a creek that should be the last one before the camp, and finally, I got up a big hill looked like the last hill next to the base camp. I could even detect some trace that should have been left by
someone not
too long ago. But
I still worried a little bit because I couldn’t see any cairns anywhere.