2010秋季首登珠峰 solo登山者率先出发

榆关

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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 24pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 12pt"><font size="2">转眼之间夏季就已临近尾声，对于梦想征服珠峰的登山者们，这意味着新的开始：谁将是今年秋天登顶珠峰的第一人？现在，单人独自登山者迈出了攀登的第一步，还有更多的登山队也加入进来，踏上了挑战极限的漫漫征途。</font></span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 21pt" align="center">去年登上Hornbein Couloir的巴斯克登山者</div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">追随着</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Reinhold Messner</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">的脚步，目前又有两位登山家正在朝珠峰前行，希望成为第二个以真正的单独攀登（</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">solo</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">）的方式登上珠峰的人：西班牙登山家</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Alberto Zerain</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">借道霍恩拜茵沟（</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Hornbein Couloir</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">），日本人</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Nobukazu Kuriki</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">则选择了从尼泊尔起步。如果他们希望成为今年秋季的首登者，那最好加快速度。因为还有更多的队伍将沿着他们的足迹攀登：来自意大利库玛耶（</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Courmayer</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">）的一个登山向导队将向</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Hornbein Couloir</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">挺进，而美国人</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Eric Larsen</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">将和一队夏尔巴人从尼泊尔启程。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 21pt" align="center">正在珠穆朗玛峰北坡适应的Alberto Zerain</div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22.1pt"><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Alberto Zerain</span></strong><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">：乐观的思维</span></strong></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Alberto Zerain</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">已经在珠峰北坡了。厚厚的积雪使</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Alberto</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">难以通过原计划的&ldquo;牦牛之路&rdquo;到达海拔</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">6400</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">米处的前进营地。而且，和他一起度过适应期的两个同伴在下面大概</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">1000</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">米的地方设立了大本营。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&ldquo;问题的关键在于要有能力把坏事变好事，&rdquo;</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Alberto</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">解释道。&ldquo;从我们离开牦牛之路的地方开始，就已经无法从北侧传统路线登上珠峰了。但是反过来看，对于在附近的山峰上找一个调整一下的地方，我们的起点还是非常好的。其中有些山峰海拔超过</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">7000</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">米。&rdquo;</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Zerain</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">总结说：&ldquo;我们要做的就是，直接朝就在我们前面的章子峰方向走。它大约有</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">7500</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">米，那里将给我们提供一个合适的休息地，而且还能欣赏一下</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Hornbein Couloir</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">的壮丽景色。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">编辑注：章子峰（</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Changtse</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">），也被称为珠穆朗玛北峰，海拔</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">7580</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">米。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">事实上，</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Alberto</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">是第六个以</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Hornbein Couloir</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">为目标的西班牙人，对于那些希望远远绕开北侧传统路线、以轻负重的方式征服珠峰的精英队伍来说，这个地方极为重要。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&ldquo;</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Zerain</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">也是继</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Roger Marshall</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">之后，第二个在这样一条极其艰难的路线上尝试单独攀登的人。&rdquo;</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Rodrigo Granzotto</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">指出。&ldquo;那位加拿大人在如此险恶的条件下登上了高达</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">7710</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">米的地方，</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Hornbein Couloir</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">的入口就在附近，却因为雪崩和深厚的雪而不得不撤退。&rdquo;</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22.1pt"><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">终究不是真正的</span></strong><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">solo</span></strong><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">？意大利人来了</span></strong></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Alberto</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">目前的这次攀登可能以终究不是&ldquo;纯粹的</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">solo</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">&rdquo;攀登（在整个上攀和下撤过程中都无同伴、无绳索、不扎营，携带最少量的装备，完全依靠自己）收场。一支意大利队伍也公布了要攀登</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Hornbein Couloir</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">的计划。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">来自奥斯塔山谷（</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Aosta valley</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">）的登山向导</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Edmond Joyeusaz</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">、</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Gianluca Marra </span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">和</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Francesco Civra Dano</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">下个星期将到达西藏。在用阿式登山法登顶后，他们还希望能滑雪下山。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">这支队伍在一个环境友好文件上保证：一旦完成了自己的攀登，他们将从路线顶端开始收回所有的固定绳，步行回到北侧传统线路的大本营，以清理路上的垃圾。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 21pt" align="center">去年在喜马拉雅大本营的日本登山家Nobukazu Kuriki</div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22.1pt"><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Kuriki</span></strong><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">：追随梅斯纳尔的足迹</span></strong></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">与此同时，在南坡，年仅</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">28</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">岁的日本人</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Nbukazu Kuriki</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">也希望成为继梅斯纳尔之后第二个用真正的</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">solo</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">方式登上珠峰的人（如果</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Zerain</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">同意的话）。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">有消息说，</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Nbukazu Kurik</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">将依靠一个会在大本营停留的夏尔巴人。但仍不清楚他是否会用补充氧气。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">下个星期六将离开家乡北海道县去往尼泊尔。这是他第二次尝试攀登珠峰，去年春季他曾从北坡试过一次。这也是他攀登&ldquo;世界七大洲最高峰&rdquo;目标的最后一站。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22.1pt"><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Eric Larsen</span></strong><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">：在</span></strong><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Kuriki</span></strong><strong><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">之后</span></strong></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">和</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Zerain</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">一样，这位日本单人登山者可能不会像他所预料的那样孤单。为了完成在一年内踏上被称为世界第三极的梦想，美国人</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Eric Larsen</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">也在向珠峰前进，他将从尼泊尔按北侧传统路线攀登。</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Eric</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">还有氧气瓶和一小队夏尔巴人作为后备。</span></div>
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<div style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; TEXT-INDENT: 22pt"><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">尽管</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Nobukazu</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">声称其目标是在</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">9</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">月底登顶，</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">Eric</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">估计他登顶的时间可能会推迟到</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">10</span><span style="LINE-HEIGHT: 150%; FONT-SIZE: 11pt">月份。但是，他们下周六都将飞往尼泊尔，很可能会准时到达大本营。</span></div>
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