Sept 7, 2011 大本营的日子Base Camp Life
What has been happening: Sept 3rd, Rest day in Camp 4700m Sept 4th, Extra rest day. Due to sickness of some supporting staff, we decided to stay at Camp 4700m for another day for the benefit of best acclimatization of everyone. We went with students for hike around the camp to reach altitude of 5000m. Sept 5th, Hike from 4700m Camp to 5300m, our base camp. Three sick staff members were sent back to Nylam. Whole team arrived at Base Camp in good shape. Sept 6th, Rest day. Everyone feeling good. Sept 7th, All went up to glacier around 5900m. Students learned walking on glacier with rope and ice climbing. Everyone is in good shape. Sept 8th, The first group of 10 students (20 students come in two batches) is leaving the mountain. We are having a rest day. Sept 9th, We are going up to ABC (Advanced Base Camp) for acclimatization training. We plan to be back to Base Camp within a week before we make an attempt on Shishapangma. 主要事件日程表 9月3日,在4700米营地休息 9月4日,临时增加的休息日。由于几位支持团队的成员状况不佳,为了保证大家的最佳适应,我们决定在4700米营地多休息一天。我们和学生们一起在周围的山上徒步,最高到达5000米海拔。 9月5日,从4700米营地徒步到5300米大本营。3名生病的支持团队的成员下山返回聂拉木。 9月6日,在大本营休息。大家状态都很好。 9月7日,大家一起徒步到5900米左右的冰川开始处。学生们学习了在冰川上结绳行进和攀冰。9月8日,第一批10名学生(汕大的20名师生分两批来)离开大本营返校。我们在大本营休息。9月9日,我们将搬到前进营地(ABC)进一步适应性训练,为期一周左右。然后回到大本营休整。 Blog: Sept 5th, arriving at base camp For the whole hike, we have been treated with refreshing air and beautiful flowers that I totally didn’t expect. I couldn’t believe we can be so lucky to still enjoy the alpine garden so high in the base camp! This has to be the most beautiful base camp I have ever had – turquoise glacier lake, giant flat ground bigger than football field covered in green grass and colorful flowers. We have all these to ourselves as the only group here! 9月5日,抵达大本营 我们这一路上享受着温润的空气和美丽的花海,已经超出了我的预期。没想到,我们的大本营在那么高的海拔上也是同样的美丽!这绝对是我到过的最美的大本营—透绿的湖,足球场那么大的平整草地,还有五颜六色的花儿们!而且,这么美丽的世界完全为我们一个团队独家拥有! Sept 6th, our new home base It was cloudy when we arrived in the afternoon that we couldn’t see surrounding mountains at all. It was a nice excitement to see the ragged southwest face of Shishapangma the next morning. On the other side, we were shocked at how far glacier has retreated. When the southwest face was first climbed in 1980s, where we are setting up our base camp was their advanced base camp (ABC) and it was where glacier started. At that time, the beautiful lake we are enjoying was completely frozen. Now, what immediately above our base camp are rocky hills! By our visual estimate, the line of glacier is at least another 500m away vertically. Seduced by the beautiful reflection of mountains in the lake, I took a walk around our lake in the morning to enjoy the 360 degree view of our new home base. To my amazement, I even found a primitive fish-like life in the lake! 9月6日, 我们的新家 昨天下午我们到达的时候大本营笼罩在云雾里,所以根本看不见周围的山。直到今天早上才得以看到希夏邦马那充满着刚毅性格纹路的西南壁。在兴奋的同时,我们也很惊异于冰川线的萎缩。当1982年西南壁第一次被攀登时,我们现在的大本营(5300米)是他们的前进营地,冰川线就是从这里开始的。我们营地边那个美丽的湖当年是个冰湖。现在,我们营地周围的山上都是裸露的石头。凭视觉判断,我们离冰川线还有至少500米的海拔距离。 早晨,我沿着湖散步一大圈,从360度欣赏周围的山在湖里的倒影。一个意外的收获,居然在这样高寒的湖里发现了一种接近鱼状的全身透明的生命! Sept 7th I woke up at the pounding sound on my tent and was surprised to realize that my tent is all covered in a thick layer of snow. Our friendly Sherpa boy was cleaning our tents so that we don’t get crushed. The past few days have been pretty warm that we totally didn’t expect snow to come this suddenly. Some students who haven’t seen snow in their lives yet have been complaining the lack of snow all the way. Now they got their wish. As anyone would guess, students got up early with all the excitement and spent a couple hours snow fighting and making snow man. After breakfast, we all set out for a hike to glacier at about 5900m. The whole hike before the glacier point was on rocky trail. It was fun to see the excitement on students’ face as we taught them traveling on glacier on rope and ice climbing. This might be the highest introduction to glacier travel and ice climbing class in the worldJ. Maybe some of them will find their passion for climbing too. 9月7日 天还没亮,我被拍打帐篷的声音惊醒,才发现我的帐篷上盖着厚厚的雪。是我们的尼泊尔协作在帮我们清理帐篷上的积雪。过去这几天都很暖和,完全没预料到有可能会下雪,而且来得那么悄悄的毫无征兆的。汕大的很多学生在这之前还没见过雪呢,一路上还挺失望的。这回可让他们如愿以偿了。不用想也可遇见,同学们早早就睡不着觉了,还没开早饭就已经忙了半天打雪仗、堆雪人。 吃过早饭,我们一起徒步去冰川开始的地方,大概是5900米左右。到达冰川前,一路都是石头路。虽然到那里时同学们都很累了,还是很积极地学习冰川结绳行进和攀冰的技术。看着他们兴奋的笑容,我们也很开心。这大概是世界上海拔最高的初级冰川行进和攀冰入门课了。也许他们当中有些人会因此行和山结下不解之缘。 Base Camp Life Life in the mountain is pretty simple. When we are not out hiking, days can pass really slow: 10am breakfast, 2 pm lunch, 9pm dinner. And you figured, a lot of sleep time between meals. Though our watch is on Beijing time, sun rise and sets on Kathmandu time. That’s why we such late nighters and late risers. Meals in the base camp are much better than what we had in Nyalam restaurants. We have several very nice Sherpa from Nepal to help us run the base camp. They did an amazing job preparing delicious meals everyday though the supply in the mountains can be quite limited. For breakfast, we normally have muesli, porridge, toast and eggs. For lunch, normally just a couple slices of spam and a few pieces of bread. Dinner of course is the biggest one of the day. Starting with a simple soup and ending with a desert like canned fruit or homemade pudding, the main course often comes with limited vegetable and some meat such as chicken or beef, though each of us would only have a few pieces that would be far from satisfying our endless appetite. Tonight’s dinner (Sept 7th) was a little bit special because this is last dinner for the first group of students. We each had two pieces of chicken leg and a slice of pizza. The desert was freshly baked cake! 大本营的生活 在山里的生活很简单。如果不出去徒步训练,一天一般是这样过的:早上10点吃早饭,下午两点午饭,晚上9点晚饭。不用说你也可以猜到,剩下的时间很多是用来睡觉了。虽然我们的手表是按北京时间,但这里的日出日落是按加德满都时间的。所以我们成了晚睡晚起的动物。 在大本营的伙食比聂拉木的饭馆强多了。我们有好几位来自尼泊尔的协作帮我们管理大本营的基本生活。尽管在山里条件有限,他们还是每天翻着花样地给我们做出可口的饭菜。早饭一般是粗麦片,粥,面包,鸡蛋。中午一般比较简单,每人几片面包,两三片罐头午餐肠。晚饭自然是一天中最丰盛的一顿,饭前有开胃汤,饭后有罐头水果之类的甜点,主餐经常会有鸡肉、牛肉、蔬菜之类的,虽然量一般少得只够我们在嘴唇上抹抹油。不过今天(9月7日)例外,因为第一批学生明天就要走了。每人吃到了两条鸡腿和一块匹萨饼,甜点更是意外 –特制的蛋糕! Current Status So far, we are all acclimatizing well. Tomorrow, we are going to have a rest day before we move up to Advanced Base Camp on Sept 9th. From there, we will do acclimatizing climbs in some smaller peaks before we get ready for Shishapangma. 现状 目前,我们状态都很好。明天(9月8日),我们在大本营休息。后天(9月9日),我们将搬家到前进营地去。在那里,我们将做一周左右的最后的适应性训练。
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